ilnius is a city of amber light and cold stone, a capital that has been conquered, liberated, occupied, and reborn more times than most nations exist. Lithuania declared independence from Soviet rule in 1990 — one of the first republics to do so — and has spent the decades since rebuilding a national identity from scratch. It is, by almost every demographic measure, one of the most ethnically homogenous countries in Europe. Walking its cobblestoned streets as a Black American is to understand, viscerally, what it means to be the only person in the room.